Guest article from Brandi Bovell, LMT, LA, CNHP of affordablespaservices.com
Exfoliation is important for everyone. Shedding our skin (cell renewal) to reveal new skin is a natural part of growth for all living things. After personally struggling with acne most of my life, I learned a lot about what didn’t work for me, and found a few things that did. For people like me with acneic skin that is also hyper sensitive, chemical exfoliation can work wonders.
Don’t let the commonly used term “chemical peel” scare you. I know the idea of your face peeling off sounds gross and scary, but that isn’t what I’m talking about. Most chemical peels cause an internal sloughing off of skin, which means you don’t even see the skin falling off or notice anything during the process other then dry skin for a few days.
Your skin is always shedding on its own every day, and the rate at which it renews is known as cell renewal factor. Just like you breathe without even thinking about it, your skin is constantly renewing itself. Chemical exfoliation simply speeds up this process, and usually without pain or discomfort. As we age our skin naturally renews less frequently, that is why as we age we notice more fine lines, or dull looking skin, and sometimes hormonal acne that may just be starting in our 30’s.
The below chart shows the frequency of the skin’s cell renewal factor based on age:
| Age | Cell Renewal Factor |
| Babies | Every 14 days |
| Teens | 21 to 28 days |
| Middle Age | 28 to 42 days |
| 50 and older | 42 to 84 days |
Because our skin renews less frequently on its own as we age, it’s extremely important for us to help it along by manually exfoliating our skin, and I don’t mean with those harsh drug store scrubs with walnuts and apricots. I won’t say any names, but you know who you are and what I’m talking about, so run don’t walk away from those products!
Although the term “Chemical Peel” makes it sound a bit harsh, chemical forms of exfoliation are actually more gentle than their “scrub” or “mechanical” exfoliation counterparts. Chemical peels actually contain very little to no chemicals, and are mostly made up of natural enzymes and acids derived from fruits and vegetables. Many are gluten-free and vegan as well, but not all.
Some commonly used chemical peeling ingredients are outlined in the below chart:
| Type | Where does it come
from? |
Enzyme or Acid? | What’s it
best for? |
How does it work? |
| Glycolic | Sugar Cane | Acid | Aging Skin
Hyper- pigmentation |
Breaks down intercellular cement to cause sloughing off of skin |
| Tartaric | Grapes | Acid | Acne
Sensitive skin Anti oxidant Balancing PH |
Breaks
down inter- cellular cement to cause sloughing off of skin |
| Lactic | Sour Milk | Acid | Acne
Dry skin |
Breaks down intercellular cement to cause sloughing off of skin, hydrates skin |
| Papain | Papaya | Enzyme | Hyper-
Pigmentation Dull skin Fine lines |
Digests dead skin cells |
| Bromelain | Pineapple | Enzyme | Reduce Blackheads
Brightening dull skin Anti oxidant |
Digests dead skin cells |
| Salicylic Acid | Willow Bark | Acid | Acne
Acne Scarring Oily Skin |
Breaks down intercellular cement to cause sloughing off of skin, hydrates skin |
Is peeling right for you? If you have any of the following skin concerns, chemical peeling might be worth exploring:
- Acne
- Acne Scarring
- Hyperpigmentation
- Fine Lines and wrinkles
- Dry Skin
- Dull Skin
- Blackheads
- Oily Skin
- Sun Damage
- Scars
However, chemical exfoliation is contraindicated for some people. If you are experiencing any of the following, you will not be able to chemical peel:
- Pregnancy
- Use of certain medications
- Sunburn
- History of cold sores
- Rosacea
- Darker Complexions
- Keloid Scarring
Chemical Peels
Chemical Peels are a technique in which acids (usually derived from fruits) are applied to the face to gently slough off the top layer of skin to reveal younger looking, smoother skin. Chemical Peels are used to treat acne, acne scarring, hyperpigmentation, fine lines, and wrinkles. There is usually a slight discomfort with the peel, but it’s not painful. The service starts with a cleansing of the face, followed by peel prep, then peel, followed by a soothing aloe mask, then aloe toner, calming serum, moisturizer, and sunscreen.
$75 per session or $400 for a series of 6 booked 2 weeks apart
Enzyme Treatment
An Enzyme works in a similar fashion to a chemical peel, however it’s gentler, and improves appearance instantly without any down time. Enzymes work by digesting the dead cells on the surface, allowing the fresh, live cells underneath to shine. I’m particularly fond of the Lemon Zest Enzyme personally, however, talk to your Licensed Master Aesthetician to determine which one is best for you upon arrival.
Add an enzyme treatment to any facial for only $10 more
I personally usually do a series of 6 chemical peels, 2 weeks apart once per year to keep my skin youthful and glowing. If you’re ready to come up with a long term plan for living in and loving your best skin, contact Affordable Spa at [email protected].